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Trier Christmas Market - Photo by Dimitry-B.

The Zeitguide to Germany’s Low-Key Christmas Markets

Germany’s Christkindlmarkt season is on. Glittering with thousands of lights and lined with tented food and gift stalls, the country’s open-air Christmas markets that open in late November and close the day after Christmas attract millions of revelers each year.

The biggest and most-visited markets are in Nuremberg (famed for its Lebkuchen, spiced cake, and Nürnberger Rostbratwürste, or small sausages) and Dresden (known for its Stollen, a bread-shaped cake). Munich, Berlin and Hamburg also host well-trodden markets. With their parades, ice-skating rinks and other festive bells and whistles, these big city markets are often packed tight. (Like U.S. shopping malls during the holiday season, they are best visited on a weekday—not the weekend or after work.)

Avoid the Christmas market sardine effect altogether by heading to one of the smaller, cozier markets highlighted after the jump.

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Ein Bier, Bitte: The Zeitguide to German Beer

According to an old German saying, Das Bier ist gesund, zu jeder Stund (Beer is healthy at any hour).  Take an early morning stroll through a beer-loving city like Dresden, Munich, Bamberg or Berlin and you’ll catch sight of residents sipping beer instead of coffee to prepare themselves for the day. Indeed, a classic Bavarian breakfast consists of Weisswurst (veal sausage), a Bretzel (soft pretzel) and a foamy Hefeweizen beer. Germany accounts for the vast majority of European beer production, but the state of the industry in the country has German beer brewers very worried. Healthier habits, the appeal of more exotic drinks, and a shrinking population means that Germans are consuming less beer every year. Since reunification in 1990, beer sales have been showing a gradual downward trend. In 2010, German breweries sold only 98.3 million hectoliters of beer, down 1.7 percent from 2009. The same year, Germans only consumed 83.4 million hectolitres of beer, down 2.9 percent from the last year. (For more information, read this Deutsche Welle article.)

Pure History
Invented in Persia and refined in Egypt, the art and craft of beer brewing had already made its way to Europe by the 1st century, when the tribes that occupied present-day Germany drank beer, in contrast to their wine-drinking contemporaries south of the Alps. Brewing eventually became the domain of monks, who perfected beer-making in the monasteries that studded the German countryside. They used only the purest ingredients–water and yeast, as well as hops, barley or wheat–to produce the beverage that was consumed on a daily basis instead of water, which was unsafe to drink. (more…)

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Mark Your Calendars: German Holidays

Germans take holidays seriously: shops close, museum hours are modified and restaurants and cafes fill up with relaxed families and groups of friends. The vast majority of museums close up tight on the major holidays in Germany: New Year’s Day, Easter Monday and Christmas; the rest of the year, they either close or switch to Sunday hours when a holiday strikes. It is worth checking ahead with the tourist information office to find out whether or not an attraction you have in mind will be open on a specific holiday. Catholic and Protestant holidays, as indicated below, are only celebrated by predominantly Catholic (southern) or Protestant (northern) states.

Major Holidays

January 1 – New Year’s Day

January 6 - Epiphany (Baden-Württemberg, Bavaria, Saxony-Anhalt)

March 21 - Good Friday

March 24 – Easter Monday

May 1 – Labor Day

May 1 – Ascension Day

May 12 – Whit Monday

May 22 – Corpus Christi (Baden-Württemberg, Bavaria, Hesse, North Rhine-Westphalia, Rhineland-Palatinate, Saarland. In some parts of Saxony and Thuringia)

August 15 – Ascension of the Virgin May (Bavaria and Saarland)

October 3 – Day of German Unity

October 31 – Day of Reformation (Brandenburg, Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Thuringia)

November 1 – All Saints Day (Baden-Württemberg, Bavaria, North Rhine-Westphalia, Rhineland-Palatinate, Saarland)

November 19 – Repentance Day (Saxony)

December 25 – Christmas Day

December 26 – Boxing Day

Have you ever spent a holiday in Germany? Comment on this post to share your experience.

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Party Time: Germany’s Government & Politics

Between 1945 and 1989, Germany consisted of two separate countries with two vastly different political systems: federal West Germany and Communist East Germany. Only since East and West united to form a single federal republic in 1990  has the country as a whole enjoyed a stable, democratic system that strives for the advancement of human rights, the protection of the environment, and the assurance of economic prosperity for all.

Organization

Germany’s constitution, the Basic Law, was first enacted on May 23, 1949. It defines the roles of the  two leaders of the Berlin-based Bundesregierung (federal government, www.bundesregierung.de)–the Bundeskanzler (federal chancellor) and the Bundespräsident (federal president).  It also establishes the rules of the two legislative bodies, the Bundestag (federal parliament) and the Bundesrat (federal council), and the Bundesverfassungsgericht (federal constitutional court, www.bundesverfassungsgericht.de). The Basic Law also lists the rights of each German citizen. The document’s cornerstone is human dignity: One of its most important declarations is that “human dignity shall be inviolable. To respect and protect it shall be the duty of all state authority.”

Bundeskanzler & Bundespräsident

Modeled after Great Britain’s prime minister, the Bundeskanzler is the executive leader of the federal government. In addition to assigning cabinet ministers who overlook the country’s many agencies, which include ministries responsible for Foreign Affairs, Family Affairs, Senior Citizens, Women and Youth, and Environment, Nature Conservation, and Nuclear Safety, the chancellor sets the country’s domestic and international agenda. Angela Merkel, who replaced Gerhard Schröder in 2006 to serve as the country’s first woman chancellor, has served two terms. The next election will take place in September or October of 2013.  The Bundespräsident, who serves a five-year term, is an official figurehead who works with the country’s foundations, hands out official prizes, and serves as a liaison between government bodies. Christian Wulff is the current president. While the Bundeskanzler works in the contemporary Bundeskanzleramt (Chancellor Building), the president works in the historic Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace).

Bundestag & Bundesrat

The German government’s two legislative bodies, the Bundestag, which meets in the Reichstag, and the Bundesrat, which meets in an elegant Leipziger Strasse palace, are composed of elected officials. Not all representatives are directly elected by voters, however: Of the 598 representatives who make up the more powerful body, the Bundestag, only 299 officials are directly elected. The rest are named by their respective political parties, which include those groups that received at least five percent of the vote. The Bundestag elects the Bundeskanzler and helps the chosen chancellor to iron out policies and pass laws. If, at any time, the Bundestag no longer believes that the chancellor is a competent ruler, the body can call for a vote of confidence. Members of the Bundesrat represent each Land (federal state); depending on its population, each state gets between three and six representatives. The primary task of this body is to deliberate on and vote for new laws—especially those that impact state governments.

Bundesländer

Germany is divided into 16 Bundesländer (federal states), including three independent city-states: Baden-Württemberg, Bayern (Bavaria), Berlin, Brandenburg, Bremen, Hamburg, Hesse (Hessen), Niedersachsen (Lower Saxony), Mecklenburg Vorpommern (Mecklenburg–Lower Pomerania), Nordrhein-Westfalen (North Rhine–Westphalia), Rhineland Pfalz (Rhineland-Palatinate), Saarland, Sachsen-Anhalt (Saxony-Anhalt), Sachsen (Saxony), Schleswig-Holstein, and Thuringia. Like U.S. states, each Land has its own state capital, where the Ministerpräsident (state president) and state parliament work, and the power to set its own laws that govern education and schooling. In many cases, states act in their own interest when promoting trade and business abroad. For more information and links to each state’s website, visit the information-packed Das Deutschland Portal (Germany Portal, http://www.deutschland.de/)

Political Parties

The dozens of political parties that take part in Germany’s political system represent diverse—and sometimes offbeat—interests: the Deutsche Familienpartei (Family Party of Germany), Mensch Umwelt Tierschutz (Humanity, Environment and Animal Protection), and the Partei für Soziale Gleichheit (Social Equality Party) are among the many parties that champion special interests. Only six parties, however, dominate the country’s vibrant political scene: the center-right Christlich Demokratische Union (CDU, Christian Democratic Union) and its partner party, the Christlich Soziale Union (CSU, Christian Social Union); the center-left Sozialdemokratische Partei Deutschlands (SPD, Social Democratic Party), the liberal economic Freie Demokratische Partei (FDP, Free Democratic Party), the environmentally minded Bündnis 90/Die Grünen (Alliance 90/The Greens), and the leftist Die Linke (The Left). It is very rare for one party to dominate the government; rather, power-sharing alliances and coalitions between or among parties share leadership. For example, all parties involved in the coalition get a share of federal cabinet posts. Currently, the CDU/CSU and FDP have a ruling agreement. In most cases, parties with extreme views, such as the far right Nationaldemokratische Partei Deutschlands (NPD, National Democratic Party of Germany) and the far left Marxistisch-Leninistische Partei Deutschlands (Marx and Lenin Party, MLPD) play only a marginal role in the national government.

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Bring an Umbrella: Germany’s Climate

Don’t visit Germany for the weather. The country has a temperate climate with four distinct seasons: warm, occasionally damp summers, brisk and brief falls, chilly, sporadically white winters, and anything goes springs, when the weather can be soggy and chilly one day and warm and sunny the next. With an annual average temperature of 9°C (48°F) and unpredictable, sudden changes in weather conditions year-round, the weather will be difficult to predict for your stay. There are between 7 and 15 wet days each month; winter and spring are the dampest and most humid, while fall and summer are the driest. Your best chance for warm, sunny weather falls between mid-May and mid-October. But there is still no guarantee that the sun will shine—even in July, when the average temperature is only 20°C (68°F). Indeed, some summers come and go without a single 30°C day, which is a scorching hot temperature for Germans.

Your chance of fine weather increases in the sunny southwest (between the Rhineland Palatinate and Baden-Württemberg)—on average, the region is five degrees warmer and almost always sunnier than the rest of the country. Freiburg and Ludwigslust (in that order) are Germany’s warmest, sunniest cities, and the Rhine and Moselle river valleys have the grapevines, lemon trees, and fig trees to prove their gentler climes. In contrast, Berlin, Brandenburg, and Saxony, huddled in Germany’s northeast corner, tend to be chillier, foggier, and overcast. If you ascend the Alps, expect the temperatures to drop with the rise in altitude. Even in the dead heat of summer, it is brisk at the top of the Zugspitze. Don’t visit Hamburg, Lübeck, and other coastal cities without an umbrella and a rain jacket. Rain is so common that residents don’t bat an eyelash when it starts to drizzle—or pour. Winters in northern, coastal areas are warmer on average than in the south, where it snows earliest and heaviest. If you’re visiting a Christmas market and want to have a winter wonderland backdrop, head to the mountains: The Alps and Erzgebirge usually deliver wintertime snow.

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